Peru - Pisco Oeste - Huascaran Sur | Expedition-Logistics

Peru

Huascaran (continued)

Nevado Huascaran Sur (22,205’)

Nevado Pisco Oeste (18,871’)

Itinerary

Day 12 — Early wake-up; transfer to Musho; trek to Huascaran basecamp. This morning we load into 4x4s for the two hour drive to the village of Musho (10,007’), where we meet our mule drivers for the approach to Huascaran basecamp. Our approach begins in lush vegetation and takes us along a eucalyptus plantation before eventually giving way to alpine flora. Continuing along moraines and streams, we arrive at basecamp (13,780’) four hours later. Basecamp is on a moraine and affords us great views of the Rio Santa Valley and the Cordillera Negra, the Black Range.

Day 13 — Casual wake-up; move to Refugio Huascaran. After breakfast we meet our porters for today’s move to advanced basecamp. We wake up by climbing a short section of dark gray rock, and then continue on up the slabs to the Refugio Huascaran (15,420’).

Day 14 — Early wake-up; carry to Camp 1; return to refugio. This morning we will continue our active acclimatization with a carry to Camp 1. Leaving the refugio, we move over granite slabs a short distance to the glacier. The glacier is easy and low-angle, but we take every precaution as we navigate the many snow bridges and crevasses. A couple of hours later we arrive at Camp 1 (18,209’) below the seracs of the Garganta Icefall. After caching our loads, we descend to the refugio for the night.

Day 15 — Casual wake-up; move to Camp 1. After a leisurely breakfast we check our gear, pack up and start the climb to Camp 1. We depart the refugio in the middle of the day as our route is on the west face of the mountain and receives sunshine until late in the day. Nestled comfortably in our camp, the spectacular colors of sunset make for unforgettable photos of Huascaran Norte and Sur, as well as the Garganta Route.

Day 16 — Early wake-up; move to Camp 2. This morning we climb the route’s crux, the Garganta Icefall. Everything that peels off the glacier above us – from the smallest chunks of ice and snow, to house-sized sections of serac – is funneled down the Garganta; it is appropriate, then, that “garganta” is Spanish for throat. Although it varies greatly from season to season, this hazard is a direct result of glacial movement, and occurs without regard to temperature or time of day. The Huascaran massif is comprised of Chopicalqui, Huascaran Sur and Huascaran Norte; today our acclimatization will come into play as we move through the icefall quickly and without stopping, and arrive at Camp 2 (19,521’) on the col between the north and south summits.

Day 17 — Alpine wake-up; Huascaran summit; return to Camp 2. From our high camp, we traverse towards the south summit, climb a short distance up easy couloir, traverse across the face to the right towards some seracs and, finally, the summit slopes. Atop Peru’s highest peak we are rewarded with views worth every minute spent sweating in the Garganta. Descending from the summit, we return to Camp 2 for the night.

Day 18 — Optional day. This day can be used at any time during the expedition, and is built in to the itinerary to allow for illness or injury; to be used for additional rest and acclimatization; or as an additional summit day to allow for unfavorable weather or route conditions, or to climb a secondary objective.

Day 19 — Early wake-up; return to refugio. This morning we descend to the refugio where we relax and recuperate.

Day 20 — Casual wake-up; return trek to Musho; transfer to Huaraz. This morning we descend to basecamp where we meet our mule drivers for the trek out to Musho, and then our 4x4s for the drive back to Huaraz, arriving in the afternoon. After hotel check-in we inventory gear and pack for travel. This evening, join your teammates for a celebration dinner and expedition debriefing.

Day 21 — Casual wake-up; transfer to Lima. After breakfast we load into vans for the eight hour drive back to Lima, arriving in the early evening. After hotel check-in, take some time to relax or explore the city.

Day 22 — Casual wake-up; transfer to airport; return flights home.

Note on Itinerary

Although our guides take reasonable measures to adhere to the itinerary, it is subject to change due to variables including, but not limited to, weather and route conditions, the condition and ability of the team, local and US government restrictions, airline changes or cancellations, other variables outside the control of Expedition-Logistics, blah, blah, blah.

Land Cost

Land Cost Includes
Professional U.S. and local guides, basecamp cook/manager, porters and pack animals, in-country ground and air transportation, all overnight accommodations, all scheduled meals, permits, group climbing equipment (ropes, rock, snow and ice protection, etc.), group camping equipment (tents, stoves, fuel, cooking pots, first aid kits, etc.), and oxygen where necessary.

Land Cost Does Not Include
International roundtrip airfare, personal climbing and camping equipment (see Personal Equipment Checklist for more information), trip cancellation insurance, medical or evacuation insurance, excess baggage fees or airport taxes, expenses incurred as a result of inclement weather or other conditions of nature, government action, illness, flight delays, or any other delays beyond the control of Expedition-Logistics, including unscheduled hotel nights and meals, incidental personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, etc.), alcoholic beverages, or gratuities to guides, porters and staff.

Additional Information

See our Terms & Conditions for more. If you have questions regarding this expedition or your suitability for it, contact us at climb@expedition-logistics.com; please include your telephone number and the best time to call.