Mexico
The Volcanoes Of
Mexico
Citlaltepetl (18, 405’)
Iztaccihuatl (17,
126’)
Overview
Difficulty Rating:
Iztaccihuatl,
PD;
Citlaltepetl,
F
Experience Level:
Advanced Beginner
Duration: 10 days
Climbers: 8
Guides: 2
Land Cost: $2300
Dates
Dec 4 - Dec 13, 2009
Dec 18 - Dec 27, 2009
Jan 1 - Jan
10, 2010
Jan 15 -
Jan 24, 2010
Expedition Code
MXVO-09-12041213
MXVO-09-12181227
MXVO-10-01010110
MXVO-10-01150124
Expedition Goals
Iztaccihuatl is an
extinct volcano and the third highest mountain
in Mexico; the seventh highest in North America.
Citlaltepetl is an
extinct, conical volcano with glaciers covering
its upper reaches. It is the highest mountain in
Mexico; the third highest in North America after
Denali and Mount Logan.
Prerequisites
Participation in this climbing expedition requires strong
beginner mountaineering skills. You must have a
basic working knowledge of the techniques for
staying warm and dry while climbing in extremely
cold conditions, and the proper use of ice axe
and crampons. Additionally, you must be
comfortable moving over steep snow and ice up to
45-degrees. High altitude and glacier travel
experience, though not required, would be
helpful. For reasons of personal and team safety
and success, it is imperative you arrive for
this climb in excellent physical condition.
Itinerary
Day 1 —
Arrive in Mexico City; Mexico, transfer from
airport; hotel check-in; administration &
logistics. Arrive in Mexico City
(7,341’), where an Expedition-Logistics guide
will be waiting to greet you. After a gear
inventory and hotel check-in, take some time to
relax or explore the city. This evening, get to
know your guides and teammates at the
welcome dinner and expedition briefing.
Day 2 —
Early wake-up; transfer to La Joya.
This morning we load into 4x4s and depart Mexico
City. Our first stop will be lunch in the
colonial city of Amecameca, in the highlands.
Amecameca is the jumping-off point for Izta-Popo
National Park, and boasts a wonderful local
mercado, or marketplace, where traditional foods
and indigenous spices are sold against a
backdrop of lush foothills. Leaving behind the
warm, friendly people of Amecameca, we drive
east to Paso de Cortez (12,073’), the low point
between Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl where
Cortez crossed in 1519. We take a short time to
check out the Paso de Cortez visitors’ center
before continuing north a short way to the day’s
destination of La Joya (12,200’) to set up tents
for the night.
Day 3 —
Casual wake-up; trek to El Portillo; return trek
to La Joya. After breakfast we take an
easy acclimatization climb to El Portillo at
about 14,436’ on Ixta’s Los Pies Route. At El
Portillo (The Pass) we catch our collective
breath, grab some food and water, and take in
the views before heading back down to La Joya.
The rest of the day will be spent acclimatizing
and making preparations for our move to high
camp.
Day 4 —
Casual wake-up; climb to Iztaccihuatl high camp.
This morning we move to high camp below the
Rodillas (15,000’).
Day 5 —
Alpine wake-up; Iztaccihuatl summit; return trek
to La Joya; transfer to Amecameca.
This morning we climb to Las Rodillas, and then
traverse along the Glaciar de las Rodillas.
Negotiating crevasses on the upper reaches of
the Glaciar de Ayoloco, we’ll eventually make
our way along the route’s namesake, the aptly
named La Arista del Sol, The Ridge of the Sun,
and in short time the summit. We descend and
return La Joya by late afternoon for a
rendezvous with our drivers and the trip to
Amecameca, where hot showers, great food, and
comfortable beds await.
Day 6 —
Casual wake-up; transfer to Tlachichuca;
transfer to Piedra Grande Hut. After
breakfast we load into vans for the drive to
Tlachichuca, making a lunch stop in the colonial
Mexican town of Puebla (7,000’). Arriving in
Tlachichuca (8,530’) we load into 4x4s for the
rough drive to our overnight destination at the
Piedra Grande huts (13,943’) on the flanks of
Citlaltepetl. After dinner we prepare for
tomorrow’s move to high camp.
Day 7 —
Casual wake-up; move to Citlaltepetl high camp.
Today’s destination is high camp at the base
of the Glaciar de Jamapa at 16,076 feet. On
arrival at camp we set up our tents, and then
scout the trail along the snout of the glacier.
We spend the remainder of the day taking photos
and resting in preparation for tomorrow’s summit
push. While some teams go for the summit from
the hut, establishing a high camp allows us to
acclimatize slowly, thus avoiding altitude
related illnesses and giving us a better chance
to get everyone to the top.
Day 8 —
Alpine wake-up; Citlaltepetl summit; return to
Piedra Grande; transfer to Tlachichuca.
This morning we climb straight up the
Glaciar de Jamapa, negotiating some steep
sections on the glacier, traversing along rock
bands higher up, arriving at the crater rim, and
eventually the summit. We descend to high camp
to pack up, and then return to Piedra Grande
where we meet our drivers for the trip back to
Tlachichuca for hot showers, hearty food, and a
comfortable place to sleep.
Day 9 —
Casual wake-up; transfer to Mexico City.
After breakfast we load into vans for the
drive back to Mexico City, arriving in the late
afternoon. After hotel check-in we inventory
gear and pack for travel. This evening, join
your teammates for a celebration dinner and
expedition debriefing.
Day 10
— Casual wake-up; transfer to airport; return
flights home.
Note on Itinerary
Although our guides take reasonable measures
to adhere to the itinerary, it is subject to
change due to variables including, but not
limited to, weather and route conditions,
the condition and ability of the team, local
and US government restrictions, airline
changes or cancellations, and other
variables outside the control of
Expedition-Logistics.
Land Cost
Land Cost Includes
Professional U.S. and local guides,
basecamp cook/manager, porters and pack
animals, in-country ground and air
transportation, all overnight
accommodations, all scheduled meals,
permits, group climbing equipment (ropes,
rock, snow and ice protection, etc.), group
camping equipment (tents, stoves, fuel,
cooking pots, first aid kits, etc.), and
oxygen where necessary.
Land Cost Does Not Include
International roundtrip airfare,
personal climbing and camping equipment (see
Personal Equipment Checklist for more
information), trip cancellation insurance,
medical or evacuation insurance, excess
baggage fees or airport taxes, expenses
incurred as a result of inclement weather or
other conditions of nature, government
action, illness, flight delays, or any other
delays beyond the control of
Expedition-Logistics, including unscheduled
hotel nights and meals, incidental personal
expenses (phone calls, laundry, room
service, etc.), alcoholic beverages, or
gratuities to guides, porters and staff.
Additional Information
See
our
Terms & Conditions
for more.
If you have questions regarding this
expedition or your suitability for it,
contact us at
climb@expedition-logistics.com; please
include your telephone number and the best
time to call.
