Mexico

 

Mountaineering School

Citlaltepetl (18,405’)

Iztaccihuatl (17,126’)

Xinantecatl (15,390’)

 

 

Overview

Difficulty Rating: Xinantecatl, PD+; Iztaccihuatl, PD; Citlaltepetl, F
Experience Level: Beginner
Duration: 15 days
Climbers: 8
Guides: 4
Land Cost: $3100

 

 

 

 

 

Expedition Goals

This “Mountaineering U” program is hands-down our most popular instructional expedition. Our Mexico Mountaineering School is an intense, hands-on introduction to the principles of mountaineering, with the goal of turning out safe, capable, self-sufficient expedition team-members. Our 15-day mountaineering syllabus covers expedition planning, high altitude physiology, glacier travel, snow and ice climbing, crevasse rescue, snow science, and avalanche awareness.

But Mountaineering U. is much more than just book-work; you’ll have the opportunity to put your knowledge into practice with ascents of three Mexican volcanoes. Xinantecatl (15,354’), the country’s fourth-highest mountain, the more well-known Iztaccihuatl (17,126’), and Citlaltepetl (18,405’), an extinct, conical volcano with glaciers covering its upper reaches. Citlaltepetl is the highest mountain in Mexico; the third highest in North America after Denali and Mount Logan. At the conclusion of this program you will have a solid foundation of skill and safety, and be well on your way toward a lifetime of mountaineering adventures.

 

Prerequisites

Participation in this climbing expedition requires hiking and camping experience, preferably with some during winter, as well as experience carrying a 30-40 pound pack over steep terrain. You must have a basic working knowledge of the techniques for staying warm and dry in extremely cold conditions, and a great motivation to learn. For reasons of personal and team safety and success, it is imperative you arrive for this climb in excellent physical condition.

 

Itinerary

Day 1 — Arrive in Mexico; transfer to Toluca; hotel check-in; administration & logistics.  Arrive in Mexico City (7,341’), where an Expedition-Logistics guide will be waiting to greet you. After a gear inventory we load into vans and depart Mexico City for the one-hour drive to the city of Toluca (8,790). Toluca is a major industrial and educational center with a number of factories, including a large Chrysler assembly plant, as well as a major university and several colleges. After hotel check-in, take some time to relax or explore the city. This evening, get to know your guides and teammates at the welcome dinner and expedition briefing.

Day 2 — Casual wake-up; transfer to basecamp.  After breakfast we spend a good portion of the day touring this fascinating city of half-a-million. Toluca is the highest city in the country, as well as the capitol of the state of Mexico. Toluca’s historic downtown includes numerous points of interest, such as La Plaza de los Martires (Martyrs’ Plaza), the Municipal Palace, Los Portales, and the botanical gardens of the Cosmovitral.

Los Portales is an impressive structure dating from 1832, and is comprised of 118 arches; it is the city’s social and commercial hub, with merchants trading in traditional foods, arts and crafts. The Cosmovitral is a delightful botanical garden made especially interesting by incorporating some of the world’s largest stained glass art.

In the late afternoon we load into 4x4s for the short drive to Xinantecatl base camp on the shores of Laguna del Sol (Lake of the Sun) and Laguna de la Luna (Lake of the Moon), at 13,780’. We spend the remainder of the day settling into our basecamp. Subjects covered this day include: Expedition Planning, Clothing & Equipment, and Alpine Camping Technique.

Day 3 — Early wake-up; mountaineering instruction; return to basecamp.  Today we climb up near crater rim for instruction and hands-on application. Subjects covered this day include: Expedition Leadership & Safety.

Day 4 — Early wake-up; Xinantecatl summit; return to basecamp.  This morning we will test the team’s ability to climb quickly and confidently over moderate alpine terrain with a traverse of Xinantecatl’s crater rim, considered by many to be a true classic. Departing basecamp by the light of headlamps, we immediately encounter difficult climbing to gain the ridge. We follow the ridge, bypassing the peak known as Lower Companario and saving our strength for our main objectives, the summits of Pico de Fraile (15,390’) and Pico de Aguila (15,157’). Along the way we’ll also summit Greater Companario (the route’s most difficult section), Pico Burkart, Pico Ordonez, and Pico Peschel. After summiting Pico de Aguilar, we head in the direction of Pico Noreste where we pick up the relatively easy descent trail back to basecamp. Subjects covered this day include: Land Navigation & Mountain Travel.

Day 5 — Early wake-up; transfer to La Joya.  This morning we load into 4x4s and depart western Mexico. We drive east, back through Mexico City and continue on into the highlands. Our first stop will be lunch in the colonial city of Amecameca (8,070’); the jumping-off point for Izta-Popo National Park. Amecameca is a wonderful city with a colorful local mercado where traditional foods and indigenous spices are sold against a backdrop of lush foothills. After lunch we drive east to the low point between Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl, Paso de Cortez (12,073’), named in honor of the Spanish Conquistador who crossed here in 1519. We take a short time to check out the Paso de Cortez visitors’ center before continuing north a short way to the day’s destination of La Joya (12,200’) to set up tents for the night and review our training. Subjects covered this day include: Ropes, Knots & Climbing Equipment.

Day 6 — Early wake-up; climb to high camp; mountaineering instruction.  This morning we move to high camp below the Rodillas (15,000’) for instruction and hands-on application. Subjects covered this day include: Protection & Anchor Systems for Alpine Climbing.

Day 7 — Early wake-up; mountaineering instruction; return to high camp.  Today we climb higher on the mountain for instruction and hands-on application. Subjects covered this day include: Alpine Climbing Technique & Belaying.

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