Ecuador

 

Mountaineering School

Cayambe (18,997’)

Extension available for Cotopaxi (19,348’)

and Chimborazo (20,703’)

 

 

Overview

Difficulty Rating: Cayambe, PD; Cotopaxi, F/PD; Sajama, D; Chimborazo, PD/PD+
Experience Level: Beginner
Duration: 13 days (21 w/ Cotopaxi/Chimborazo extension)
Climbers: 8
Guides: 4
Land Cost: $3200 ($3800 w/ Cotopaxi and Chimborazo extension)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Expedition Goals

We call this program “Mountaineering U.” It is an intense, hands-on introduction to the principles of mountaineering, with the goal of turning out safe, capable, self-sufficient expedition team-members. Our 13-day mountaineering syllabus covers expedition planning, high altitude physiology, glacier travel, snow and ice climbing, crevasse rescue, snow science, and avalanche awareness.

But Mountaineering U. is much more than just book-work; you’ll have the opportunity to put your knowledge into practice with an ascent of Cayambe, a massive extinct volcano; Ecuador’s third highest mountain and the third highest in the Americas north of the equator. Cayambe’s summit is the highest point on earth through which the equator passes.

The 8-day extension reinforces the lessons of the basic course, covers selected topics more in-depth, and allows team members the opportunity to climb a couple of truly memorable expedition peaks. We begin by climbing Cotopaxi, a classic, symmetrical volcanic cone, and the second highest mountain in Ecuador. Cotopaxi held the title of world’s highest active volcano for many years until Chile's Tupungato (21,489’) erupted in 1986, awakening from dormancy. Next we attempt the massive Chimborazo, whose summit has the distinction of being the farthest point from our earth’s center. At the conclusion of this program you will have a solid foundation of skill and safety, and be well on your way toward a lifetime of mountaineering adventures.

 

Prerequisites

Participation in this climbing expedition requires hiking and camping experience, preferably with some during winter, as well as experience carrying a 30-40 pound pack over steep terrain. You must have a basic working knowledge of the techniques for staying warm and dry in extremely cold conditions, and a great motivation to learn. For reasons of personal and team safety and success, it is imperative you arrive for this climb in excellent physical condition.

 

Itinerary

Day 1 — Arrive in Ecuador; transfer from airport; hotel check-in; administration & logistics.  Arrive in Quito (9,350’), where an Expedition-Logistics guide will be waiting to greet you. After a gear inventory and hotel check-in, take some time to relax or explore the city. This evening, get to know your guides and teammates at the welcome dinner and expedition briefing.

Day 2 — Casual wake-up; acclimatize in Quito; trek to Laguna Cuicocha.  Today we begin our active acclimatization. In the morning we walk around the city while shopping and sightseeing. After lunch we hike above town to Laguna Cuicocha (11,200’), a beautiful turquoise lake in an ancient, collapsed volcanic crater containing three volcanic cones. The flora here is spectacular, and includes miniature orchids. In the distance we can see Cayambe and Cotopaxi. We overnight at the lake. Subjects covered this day include: Expedition Planning; Clothing & Equipment; Alpine Camping Technique.

Day 3 — Early wake-up; return to Quito; transfer to Otavalo.  After hot drinks and a quick snack, we return to Quito for breakfast. Afterwards we take a three-hour bus ride north to the small town of Otavalo (8,530’). The people of Otavalo are predominantly of indigenous, mestizo and European descent. There are some 40,000 native Otavalenos in Ecuador, and most live in the villages around Otavalo. Most native Otavalenos are master craftsmen and artisans, especially weavers and milliners. In la Plaza de los Ponchos we will find ponchos, hand made wool blankets, tapestries and sweaters, Panama Hats (which are actually Ecuadorian in origin) and handmade jewelry. Today we also visit the Indian market, which actually dates back to pre-Inca times. The market is a festive affair hosted by Otavalenos in traditional garb. At lunch, sample the local delicacy, cuy – roast guinea pig – and wash it down with Chicha, a beer made from corn. Subjects covered this day include: Expedition Leadership; Expedition Safety.

Day 4 — Early wake-up; transfer to Mojanda Lakes; trek to Hacienda Guachala.  This morning we load into 4x4s for the hour drive to the Mojanda Lakes, a group of mountains and three picturesque lakes just south of Otavalo. At Mojanda Lakes we take an acclimatization hike to the summit of Volcan Fuya-Fuya (13,986’), the highest peak in the Mojanda-Cajas range. We overnight at the Hacienda Guachala (8,600’), which dates back to 1580 and is oldest hacienda in Ecuador. Caranqui and Cayambe Indians inhabited this area before the Spanish came, and the Incas built a fortress where the hacienda stands today. In modern times the hacienda has been the residence of numerous political figures including two Ecuadorian presidents. Subjects covered this day include: Land Navigation; Mountain Travel.

Day 5 — Early wake-up; transfer to Cayambe Village; trek to Refugio Ruales-Oleas-Berge.  After a leisurely breakfast we load into 4x4s and travel to the village of Cayambe, a quiet highland town famous for its biscochos, biscuits with cheese. From Cayambe Village we drive down a dirt road to Hacienda Piemonte and continue into the Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve, stopping for lunch in the Quebrada de los Mirlos. After lunch we trek to the Refugio Ruales-Oleas-Berge (15,748’) on Cayambe’s southeast flank. We spend the remainder of the day in class on the glacier. Subjects covered this day include: Ropes & Knots; Climbing Equipment.

Day 6 — Casual wake-up; mountaineering instruction; return to refugio.  From the refugio we climb to the top of a rocky ridge, dropping down onto the very active and heavily crevassed glacier at 15,846 feet. Subjects covered this day include: Protection & Anchor Systems for Alpine Climbing; Mountain Geology & Glaciology.

Day 7 — Casual wake-up; mountaineering instruction; return to refugio.  Today we return to the glacier for further instruction and hands-on application. Subjects covered this day include: Alpine Climbing Technique & Belaying; Snow Science & Avalanche Hazard Evaluation; Avalanche Rescue.

Day 8 — Casual wake-up; mountaineering instruction; return to refugio.  Today we return to the glacier for further instruction and hands-on application. Subjects covered this day include: Glacier Travel; Crevasse Rescue.

Day 9 — Casual wake-up; mountaineering instruction; return to refugio.  Today we return to the glacier for further instruction, practice and review. We return to the refugio in the late afternoon to relax and prepare for tomorrow’s summit day. Subjects covered this day include: High Altitude Physiology; First Aid & Self-rescue.

Day 10 — Alpine wake-up; Cayambe summit; return to refugio.  Leaving the refugio we climb the same route we’ve taken the past few days to our glacier classroom at 15,846 feet. We continue very carefully up the glacier – the only one in the world through which the equator passes – and, after many hours of avoiding crevasses, we reach the bergschrund. We surmount the bergschrund either by lowering down into it and climbing up the far side, or by skirting it if possible. Not long afterward, we cross an easy ridge and stand on the summit. Cayambe is Ecuador’s third highest mountain and the highest point on earth through which the equator passes; as such, Cayambe reins as the coldest place on the equator. From the summit we descend to the refugio for the night.

Day 11 — Optional day.  This day can be used at any time during the expedition, and is built in to the itinerary to allow for illness or injury; to be used for additional rest and acclimatization; or as an additional summit day to allow for unfavorable weather or route conditions, or to climb a secondary objective.

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