Bolivia

 

Mountaineering School

Huayna Potosi (19,996’)

Tarija (17,449’)

Extension available for Illimani (21,122’)

 

 

Overview

Difficulty Rating: Tarija, F; Huayna Potosi, AD; Sajama, D; Illimani, PD+
Experience Level: Beginner
Duration: 16 days (22 w/ Illimani extension)
Climbers: 8
Guides: 4
Land Cost: $3100 ($3800 w/ Illimani extension)

 

 

 

 

 

Expedition Goals

We call this program “Mountaineering U.” It is an intense, hands-on introduction to the principles of mountaineering, with the goal of turning out safe, capable, self-sufficient expedition team-members. Our 16-day mountaineering syllabus covers expedition planning, high altitude physiology, glacier travel, snow and ice climbing, crevasse rescue, snow science, and avalanche awareness.

But Mountaineering U. is much more than just book-work; you’ll have the opportunity to put your knowledge into practice with an ascent of Tarija, a perfect warm-up climb with breathtaking views of the Bolivian Andes, and Huayna Potosi, a world-class mountaineering peak with a breathtaking summit and indescribable views of Lake Titicaca, the Cordillera Real and the Amazon Basin.

The 6-day extension reinforces the lessons of the basic course, covers selected topics more in-depth, and allows team members the opportunity to climb a truly memorable expedition peak: “The Shining One”, Illimani, the highest and southernmost peak in Bolivia’s most extensive mountain range, the Cordillera Real. At the conclusion of this program you will have a solid foundation of skill and safety, and be well on your way toward a lifetime of mountaineering adventures.
 

Prerequisites

Participation in this climbing expedition requires hiking and camping experience, preferably with some during winter, as well as experience carrying a 30-40 pound pack over steep terrain. You must have a basic working knowledge of the techniques for staying warm and dry in extremely cold conditions, and a great motivation to learn. For reasons of personal and team safety and success, it is imperative you arrive for this climb in excellent physical condition.

 

Itinerary

Day 1 — Arrive in Bolivia; transfer from airport; hotel check-in.  Arrive in El Alto (13,123’), where an Expedition-Logistics guide will be waiting to greet you. After a gear inventory and hotel check-in, take some time to relax or explore the city. This evening, get to know your guides and teammates at the welcome dinner and expedition briefing.

Day 2 — Casual wake-up; acclimatization in La Paz; administration & logistics.  We will be closely monitoring everyone’s health, as the partial pressure at altitude in La Paz (11,900’) is quite low and mountain sickness is a very real possibility for team members who’ve traveled from significantly lower elevations. To begin the acclimatization process we’ll wander the hilly streets sightseeing and shopping. In particular, we’ll check out the Mercado de las Brujas, or Witches’ Market, on Calle Linares, where we will find real witches selling magic spells and potions, folk and herbal remedies, and handcrafted jewelry. The Witches' Market is also offers one-stop shopping for your last-minute purchases of dried frogs, owl feathers, or dried llama fetuses (you know, for good luck). Throughout the day we’ll catch glimpses of Illimani, which dominates the view from town. Subjects covered this day include: Expedition Planning; Clothing and Equipment; Alpine Camping Technique.

Day 3 — Early wake-up; transfer to Tiahuanaco ruins; overnight in Copacabana.  After breakfast we drive to the ruins of the ancient city of Tiahuanaco. In addition to being Bolivia's most significant archaeological site, Tiahuanaco is a portal through which to view the ancient Amyara people and pre-Inca culture. Tiahuanaco was established on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca in 400 B.C. The city developed into a major ceremonial center, and was built with many terraced platforms, pyramids, courts, and urban centers dispersed over two and a half square miles. The ruins include elaborate courtyards, giant stone figures, and the Gate of the Sun, which is thought to have been an observatory and solar calendar dating to 600 B.C. We overnight in Copacabana (12,500’). Subjects covered this day include: Expedition Leadership; Expedition Safety.

Day 4 — Casual wake-up; visit Isla del Sol; return to Copacabana.  Today we continue our acclimatization while navigating the high seas of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world and a sacred place to the Incas. In the morning we visit Isla del Sol, which was an Inca huaca, or holy shrine; the very place where they believed the world began. Later in the day we land on Isla Suriqui, where we explore Inca ruins and observe local villagers going about their lives in ways not far removed from that of the ancient Incas. Subjects covered this day include: Land Navigation; Mountain Travel.

Day 5 — Early wake-up; transfer to Tuni; trek to Condoriri basecamp.  This morning we drive to the village of Tuni (13,779’), where we trade in our internal combustion engines for burros. With these gentle, hard-working animals hauling our gear, we make the 4-5 hour trek to Condoriri basecamp on the shores of Chiar Kota, or Black Lake (15,091’). If the approach doesn’t leave you breathless, the alpine setting and views of peaks including Ilusion, Pequeno Alpamayo, Apacheta, Blancacita, Pico Mirador and Condoriri certainly will. We spend the remainder of the day in class on the glacier. Subjects covered this day include: Ropes & Knots; Climbing Equipment.

Day 6 — Casual wake-up; mountaineering instruction; basecamp.  From our basecamp at the lake we take a short trek to our “classroom” on the glacier for instruction and hands-on application. Subjects covered this day include: Protection & Anchor Systems for Alpine Climbing.

Day 7 — Casual wake-up; mountaineering instruction; basecamp.  Today we return to the glacier for further instruction and hands-on application. Subjects covered this day include: Alpine Climbing Technique & Belaying.

Day 8 — Casual wake-up; mountaineering instruction; basecamp.  Today we return to the glacier for further instruction and hands-on application. Subjects covered this day include: Glacier Travel; Crevasse Rescue.

Day 9 — Casual wake-up; mountaineering instruction; basecamp.  Today we return to the glacier for further instruction, practice and review. We return to the refugio in the late afternoon to relax and prepare for tomorrow’s summit day. Subjects covered this day include: High Altitude Physiology; First Aid & Self-rescue.

Day 10 — Alpine wake-up; Tarija summit; return to basecamp.  This morning we head for the top of Tarija; a straightforward climb with a short 50-degree section and great views of the surrounding peaks, including the impressive Pequeno Alpamayo. The summit is roomy, but pleasantly exposed. Afterward, we descend back to basecamp.

Day 11 — Casual wake-up; transfer to Zongo Valley; trek to Refugio Huayna Potosi.  This morning we pack up and meet our mule-drivers for the trek back to Tuni. In town we load into 4x4s for the drive to the Zongo Valley, from there it's uphill to the Refugio Huayna Potosi  (15,748’), where we overnight. Subjects covered this day include: Mountain Geology & Glaciology.

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