Bolivia - Ancohuma - Illampu - Villa Sorata

Bolivia

Villa Sorata

Nevado Ancohuma (21,085')

Nevado Illampu (20,867')

Pico Schulze (19,498')

Overview

Difficulty Rating: Ancohuma, AD; Illampu, D
Experience Level: Advanced Intermediate
Duration: 22 days
Climbers: 4
Guides: 2
Land Cost: $3550

Dates

Aug 7 - Aug 28, 2010

Expedition Code

BVAI-10-08070828

Expedition Goals

Ancohuma is the second highest mountain in Bolivia’s Cordillera Real; it offers some of the finest climbing in the Andes, with great snow and ice climbing on moderately steep lines.

Illampu is a difficult mountain at the northernmost point of the Cordillera Real and the second highest peak of its eponymous mountain group. This complex and isolated cluster of icy peaks – many towering over 19,600 feet – is located just northwest of La Paz.

Prerequisites

Participation in this climbing expedition requires advanced intermediate to advanced mountaineering skills. You must have a solid working knowledge of the techniques for staying warm and dry while climbing, traveling and camping in extremely cold conditions, and the proper use of ice axe and crampons. Additionally, you must be comfortable moving over steep snow and ice up to 90-degrees, following grade 4 ice, and be proficient in commonly accepted belay techniques. High altitude experience up to 14,000 feet, glacier travel experience, and technical ice climbing experience are required. For reasons of personal and team safety and success, it is imperative you arrive for this climb in excellent physical condition.

Itinerary

Day 1 — Arrive in Bolivia; transfer from airport; hotel check-in. Arrive in El Alto (13,123’), where an Expedition-Logistics guide will be waiting to greet you. After a gear inventory and hotel check-in, take some time to relax or explore the city. This evening, get to know your guides and teammates at the welcome dinner and expedition briefing.

Day 2 — Casual wake-up; acclimatization in La Paz; administration & logistics. We will be closely monitoring everyone’s health, as the partial pressure at altitude in La Paz (11,900’) is quite low and mountain sickness is a very real possibility for team members who’ve traveled from significantly lower elevations. To begin the acclimatization process we’ll wander the hilly streets sightseeing and shopping. In particular, we’ll check out the Mercado de las Brujas, or Witches’ Market, on Calle Linares, where we will find real witches selling magic spells and potions, folk and herbal remedies, and handcrafted jewelry. The Witches' Market is also offers one-stop shopping for your last-minute purchases of dried frogs, owl feathers, or dried llama fetuses (you know, for good luck). Throughout the day we’ll catch glimpses of Illimani, which dominates the view from town.

Day 3 — Early wake-up; transfer to Tiahuanaco ruins; overnight in Copacabana. Today we’re off to visit the Tiahuanaco ruins. This ancient city is Bolivia's most significant archaeological site, and a portal through which to view the ancient Amyara people and pre-Inca culture. The Tiahuanaco settled on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca in 400 B.C. The city developed into a major ceremonial center, and was built with many terraced platforms, pyramids, courts and urban centers dispersed over two and a half square miles. The ruins include elaborate courtyards, giant stone figures, and the Gate of the Sun, which is thought to have been an observatory and solar calendar dating to 600 B.C. We overnight in Copacabana (12,500’).

Day 4 — Casual wake-up; visit Isla del Sol; return to Copacabana. Today we continue our acclimatization while navigating the high seas of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world and a sacred place to the Incas. In the morning we visit Isla del Sol, which was an Inca huaca, or holy shrine; the very place where they believed the world began. Later in the day we land on Isla Suriqui, where we explore Inca ruins and observe local villagers going about their lives in ways not far removed from that of the ancient Incas.

Day 5 — Early wake-up; transfer to Sorata. This morning we load our gear and make the three hour drive to the colorful colonial village of Sorata (8,858’), near the base of Illampu's west flank, where we check into the Residencial Sorata Hotel. Sorata is located in the deep, temperate, agricultural valley formed by the Rio San Cristobal; it is a colorful town of winding cobblestone streets, steep stairways, funky shops and wonderful restaurants. To gaze at the snowy peaks of the northern Cordillera Real while standing in the middle of the palm-tree-and-flower-bed-lined central plaza is nothing short of surreal. In the early afternoon we take an acclimatization trek to explore the area’s pristine rivers and spectacular waterfalls. Afterwards we relax and prepare for tomorrow’s move to Ancohuma basecamp.

Day 6 — Early wake-up; trek to Laguna Chillata. After breakfast we meet our mule drivers and load our gear for the two-day approach to basecamp. Today will be a long one as we steadily gain elevation while hiking up the Rio Tusca Jahiura Valley enroute to our camp at Laguna Chillata (13,793’), a lake high above the valley. The laguna is also known as Pata Khota, or “High Lake” in Aymara, and here is where we say goodbye to our pack animals and camp for the night.

Day 7 — Casual wake-up; trek to Ancohuma basecamp. Today’s section of trail is steep and ill-suited to the use of mules, so this morning we continue on our approach to basecamp with the assistance of porters. We set up basecamp at Laguna Glaciar (16,831’) and spend the remainder of the day recuperating from the approach. The laguna is also known as Lichi Khota, or “Milky White Lake” in Aymara. In two days we have gained 7,000 feet in elevation and gone from the heat of the yunga (jungle) to our alpine camp at a lake that more often than not has icebergs floating in it.

Day 8 — Casual wake-up; mandatory rest day. Today is a rest day to promote recovery and allow for proper acclimatization. It is important to remember that rest and recuperation are vital to the acclimatization process and the prevention of altitude sickness. Our well thought-out and proven system of active acclimatization – incremental increases in altitude and exertion in combination with sufficient recovery time and proper nutrition – has paid off time and again with a consistently high success rate summit days.

Day 9 — Early wake-up; move to Ancohuma high camp. Today we ascend the heavily crevassed glacier and climb to high camp (18,700’). From our high camp we have great views of Illampu and other peaks.

Day 10 — Alpine wake-up; Ancohuma summit; return to basecamp. We leave camp and continue up the glacier by headlamp. After a few hours of effort, we find ourselves standing on the summit at 21,079 feet. As with many mountains of the world, there has been some dispute as to the actual height of Ancohuma. Some measurements have placed it at 21,489 feet, which would make it taller than Bolivia’s generally accepted highest peak, Illimani (21,122’). In any case, the views from the summit are breathtaking. After the summit we descend to basecamp for the night.

Day 11 — Early wake-up; return trek to Sorata. This morning we trek back to Sorata, stopping at Laguna Glaciar to load our gear onto mules and continue into town with light daypacks. Arriving in Sorata by late afternoon, we spend the remainder of the day recuperating and basking in the sun. Those with energy to spare can rent a mountain bike and explore the surrounding hills, or perhaps take a 6-mile trek to the Gruta de San Pedro, a deep cave containing an underground lake in which to swim.

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