Argentina
Ruta Normal
(continued)
Cerro Aconcagua
(22,841')
Itinerary
Day
12 — Casual wake-up; mandatory rest day.
Today is a rest day to promote recovery
and allow for proper acclimatization. We
will use this time to organize additional
loads to carry for tomorrow’s move to Camp
2.
Day
13 — Casual wake-up; move to Camp 2.
This morning we once again shoulder
packs filled with extra food, fuel and
equipment, and move to Camp 2. Nido de
Condores, the “Condors’ Nest” is a romantic
name for what is in reality a wind-blown
camp site scratched into a bleak and barren
saddle. To the south is a scree field known
as the Gran Acarreo (“Long Haul”), across
which we can see the Canaleta (“Gully”) that
will lead us to the summit. After setting up
camp, we spend the remainder of the day
recuperating, organizing gear for tomorrow’s
carry to high camp, and taking in the views.
Day
14 — Casual wake-up; carry to high camp;
return to Camp 2. After breakfast
we once again toil under our heavy packs for
today’s equipment carry to high camp. We
cross to the other end of the plateau and
climb to the right, following the Northwest
Ridge to our high camp, also known as Berlin
Camp, at 19,520’. This high on the mountain
we stand a good chance of taking a buffeting
from the Viento Blanco, the White Wind; so
called because of the plume of snow it blows
from the summit. After caching our gear, we
take a short break to recover from our
climb, take in the views, and descend to
Camp 2. We spend the remainder of the day
recuperating from our carry, drinking large
quantities of hot drinks, and eating large,
high-calorie meals to top off our fuel
reserves in preparation for tomorrow’s move
to high camp and the upcoming summit days.
Day
15 — Early wake-up; move to high camp.
This morning we load up one last time
and again follow the Northwest Ridge for our
move to high camp. Camp Berlin is home to
the Refugio Berlin, built in 1998 by Pfalz
chapter of the German Alpine Club. There are
three older, highly decrepit, but still-used
shelters here as well; the old Refugio
Berlin, the Libertad, and the Plantamura.
After setting up camp we spend the afternoon
recuperating and organizing gear. Following
an early dinner we retire in anticipation of
tomorrow’s summit day.
Day
16 — Alpine wake-up; Aconcagua summit;
return to high camp. We depart
high camp by headlamp and continue farther
along the Northwest Ridge; enroute we pass
the ruins of the Refugio Independencia
(21,480’), once the world’s highest. At this
point in our climb we might chance to meet
teams climbing the Polish Glacier Route,
which ascends from the other side of the
mountain, and then intersects our route and
continues along it to the summit. Climbing
from Independencia we reach the Cresta del
Viento (“Windy Ridge”), cross the upper
reaches of the Gran Acarreo, and eventually
arrive at the famous Canaleta. The Canaleta
is a scree-choked gully rising at an angle
of 30-degrees for about 1,300 feet; a severe
test of patience, and the most challenging
part of the route. Exiting the Canaleta we
reach the Cresta del Guanaco, a ridge
joining the North and South Summits; we
continue along the ridge to the North Summit
(22,841’), and stand atop the Andes and the
highest point in the Western Hemisphere. The
360-degree views from here are stunning, as
is the breathtaking view down the sheer,
9000-foot South Face of Aconcagua. From the
summit we descend to high camp for the
night.
Days 17-18 – Optional days. These
days can be used at any time during the
expedition, and are built in to the
itinerary to allow for illness or injury; to
be used for additional rest and
acclimatization; or as additional summit
days to allow for unfavorable weather or
route conditions.
Day
19 — Early wake-up; return to basecamp.
This morning we descend to basecamp for
well-deserved baths, lots of hot food and
drink, and a somewhat warmer and less windy
place to sleep.
Day
20 — Casual wake-up; mandatory rest day.
Today is a rest day to promote recovery
from our time at altitude. We will use this
time to pack for tomorrow’s start of the
hike out.
Day
21 — Early wake-up; return trek to Puente
del Inca. After breakfast we load
our gear onto mules for today’s hike back
down the Horcones Valley, steadily gaining
back our strength as we descend. We arrive
at our overnight destination at Puente del
Inca in the late afternoon and settle into
the dormitory.
Day
22 — Casual wake-up; transfer to Mendoza.
This morning we load into 4x4s and
depart Puente del Inca for the four-hour
drive to Mendoza, arriving in the late
afternoon. After hotel check-in we inventory
gear and pack for travel. This evening, join
your teammates for a celebration dinner and
expedition debriefing.
Day
23 — Casual wake-up; transfer to airport;
return flights home.
Note on Itinerary
Although our guides take reasonable measures
to adhere to the itinerary, it is subject to
change due to variables including, but not
limited to, weather and route conditions,
the condition and ability of the team, local
and US government restrictions, airline
changes or cancellations, other
variables outside the control of
Expedition-Logistics, blah, blah, blah.
Land Cost
Land Cost Includes
Professional U.S. and local guides, basecamp
cook/manager, porters and pack animals,
in-country ground and air transportation,
all overnight accommodations, all scheduled
meals, permits, group climbing equipment
(ropes, rock, snow and ice protection,
etc.), group camping equipment (tents,
stoves, fuel, cooking pots, first aid kits,
etc.), and oxygen where necessary.
Land Cost Does Not Include
International roundtrip airfare, personal
climbing and camping equipment (see
Personal Equipment
Checklist for more information),
trip cancellation insurance, medical or
evacuation insurance, excess baggage fees or
airport taxes, expenses incurred as a result
of inclement weather or other conditions of
nature, government action, illness, flight
delays, or any other delays beyond the
control of Expedition-Logistics, including
unscheduled hotel nights and meals,
incidental personal expenses (phone calls,
laundry, room service, etc.), alcoholic
beverages, or gratuities to guides, porters
and staff.
Additional Information
See
our
Terms & Conditions for more. If you have questions regarding this
expedition or your suitability for it,
contact us at
climb@expedition-logistics.com; please
include your telephone number and the best
time to call.
